INFASHIONITY attented the Neil Barrett ss16 men’s runway show during Milan Fashion Week. Here is the review of the collection.
At a time when gender limits are being redefined and the frontier between menswear and womenswear being challenged by many designers (we’ll talk more about this topic in upcoming show reviews), Neil Barrett’s new spring summer 2016 collection had one particular characterisitc : it was essentialy masculine. The italian-based british designer could even be seen as going against the tide as other designers, as his women’s collections have always been derived from men’s.
After introducing us to his modernist approach, declined over a fews seasons, with sweaters as iconic it-pieces, the time came for Neil Barrett to reinvent himself with his new collection.
The tone was set right as one entered the show space, fully covered, floor and walls, with an intricate new pattern. After spring summer 15’s so-called Romaflage pattern – camouflage created through distorted visuals of greco-roman sculptures – the new season’s pattern is a fusion of keffieh checks, battik patterns and nautical lines.
The result is a new modern decoration, applied on short-sleeved tops or tailored coats.
Barrett’s strong tailoring skills are indeed evident throughout the collection, but mixed with relaxed trousers for an easy-going but stylish silhouette.
A certain uniformity breathes harmoniously through the collection, which as a whole speaks easily to the confident man.
Trousers are delibaretely cropped at ankle-length with large cuffs, echoing turned-up sleeves on the collection’s shirts.
Harmony rules the colour palette as well. All-white, all- denim, monochrome looks. Sophistication comes from patterns, textures and cut.
The new fused camo pattern is instantly desirable, as is what seems like a diluted leopard print.
Witnessing the collection live, I found myself craving for most pieces, which exude modernity but with such simplicity.
Faithful to his minimal approach, but still innovative, Neil Barrett has once again proven himself as a true menswear master.
I hope you enjoyed this first review of this season’s collections.