Men’s fashion month officially started last night in NYC with french House Yves Saint Laurent showing its latest men’s collection by the Manhattan skyline. Click to see our favorite looks and watch the video of the full show.
When the season’s parisian calendar of menswear shows first came out lacking an entry for Saint Laurent, one could wonder if the House would show menswear together with womenswear again in September.
However, designer Anthony Vaccarello had another trick up his sleeve and decided to show his first dedicated menswear effort in NYC.
If Saint Laurent stands for french “grandeur”, the set up of last night’s show was nonetheless spectacular.
After invading the Trocadero’s fountains in Paris for the last women’s show with a stunning view on the Eiffel Tower, this new show took its crowd to Liberty State Park facing Manhattan, offering a fascinating skyline and decor for the show.
Continuity
From the opening look, it was clear that there is no revolution in the men’s aesthetic at Saint Laurent and that Hedi Slimane’s imprint is still holding strong.
And we are not mad.
Why break a formula that’s proven successful and that helped define the YSL men’s “look”.
Anthony Vaccarello delivered a perhaps not surprising but strong collection in signature Saint Laurent style.
A predominantly black color palette, with touches of camel, red, kaki, animal print.
Slim silhouettes (though trousers were sometimes more relaxed arount the ankle), tailored blazers, suede jackets, embroidery and sparkling touches.
Scarves, bandanas, silk shirts, leather jackets.
The biggest surprise was probably that some of the most desirable pieces were actually shown on women.
An allusion to Vaccarello still being more comfortable in womenswear? A gender-fluid statement?
Or perhaps, as he mentionned to press after the show, that Yves Saint Laurent himself designed very few men’s pieces.
The male Saint Laurent look is therefore a creation, somewhere between Mr Saint Laurent’s personal way of dressing and Slimane’s contemporary vision of it.
A glittering finale
The show ended on a sparkling note, with all the male models walking in sequined black trousers and their bare torsos covered in silver glitter.
Did someone say Disco?
You can watch the full show here:
all images: Courtesy of Saint Laurent
What are your thoughts on the collection?
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InfasHionably yours,
H
